The newly refurbished Dominion Square Tavern opened its doors earlier this month, and the place is stunning. With Baldwin’s Barmacie’s Alex Baldwin at the helm, the formerly grungy pub has been restored to its original 1920s splendor. High ceilings, antique hand-carved wall hangings, checkered yellow-and green horsy tiles, metal drum bathroom sinks, quirky glass wear: charming design details abound at the DST.

The Tavern’s warm lighting and classic rock welcomed me one cold winter’s eve last week. I had the moules frites, an ample serving of mussels and fries for a reasonable $13, while my dining companion sampled the half pig knuckle, $17. Desserts are not to missed; we enjoyed sugared donuts with sour cream ($7), spiced cake with apple sorbet ($7) and sticky toffee pudding ($8). As you’d expect, the Tavern has a full bar, but, perhaps more surprisingly, also features a lengthy wine list.

While this spot would be a welcome addition to any neighborhood, it’s especially handy in the gastro-wasteland that is Downtown Montreal. Sure to be a hit with the working 5 à 7 crowd, I also predict that its artful décor will succeed in luring style-conscious Mile-Enders into the Downtown core, their first trek below Mont-Royal (gasp!) since they got their BFAs from Concordia.

1243 Metcalfe, below Ste. Catherine.
514.564.5056.
http://www.tavernedominion.com/