By: Julie Reitsma

After hopping many a brow-furrowing hurdle (we’re squinting in your general direction, city worker’s strike), the lovely ladies of Lola’s Commissary have shut their laptops and turned on the burners, ready to grill, roast and bisque their way into Toronto’s epicurean heart.

Therese de Grace—winner of reality series The Pressure Cooker and restaurant reporter for Toronto Living—and her partner in crime, Lady K—Karen Balcom, formerly of Pope Joan’s—are keeping it local and seasonal with menus that reflect currently available produce, and the upon-a-whim changing temperature outside.

From the fall menu, the pumpkin bisque is the embodiment of spicy warmth, with the flavours of cumin and cardamom cooled by swirls of cream and offset by the crunch of pumpkin seeds. Crackling trout, cooked masterfully with just enough rare to satisfy, is rounded off by a light apple fennel salsa atop a leek and spinach puree—easily the best alternative to starch we’ve come across, and were most thankful for, after being carbed-out during a recent Tuscan romp. Grilled striploin is accompanied by a divine wild mushroom and smoked bacon hash—an ultimate rib-sticking indulgence.

Still on our list of must tries are the butternut squash and black walnut ravioli; lunch time artisan pizzas that run the gamut from twice cooked bacon with apple, cheddar and arugula, to a vegan featuring a tomato hemp pesto; the sweet spring roll with caramel dipping sauce; and an assortment of vegetarian options that got even this carnivore contemplating an animal free meal. Nor should we forget that Lola isn’t just a PM type of girl. Instead of going speakeasy, the ladies spent their time sans-alcool to get the brunch menu sorted, with attractive results – a slew of egg options, three styles of French Toast, and vegerrific dishes abound – hell, even the potatoes are described as sexy.

A front patio, 16-foot windows, exposed brick chimney and the occasional ghost story (don’t fret—a whisperer has already intervened) only add to Lola’s gastronomical appeal. While we’ll miss the expletive-laden posts on this fair site, we’ll be well satiated by the warmth of both the fare and the chefs at this spicy new Church Street haunt.

Lola’s Commissary
643 Church Street
Brunch — Lunch — Dinner
416-966-3991.