The Steak Out

by Julie Reitsma
Finding ourselves, rather awe-stricken, seated across from the illustrious Sara Waxman for our dinner at Toronto’s newest carnivorous eatery, Steak Restaurant and Bar, we were thankful for the pre-dinner lavender-adorned blueberry martini and that we’d brought an appetite for something rare. There’s no ignoring New York’s influence on Steak. Walls laden with imagery from the great metropolis and a large, dark-wooded, boothy vibe, the space is high on the cozy, while still remaining quite open, with unobstructed views across the dining room available for those who find suit-watching an enjoyable accoutrement to any steak dinner.

Speaking of, while the meat on offer, as made clear by the rather obvious appellation, is definitely the intended focal point of the experience, there’s more to Steak than just beefiness. Warm rolls from Fred’s bakery, served with sweet, whipped, butter, will keep you in high spirits—if the martinis don’t—while you decide on how best to chow down. We started off with Scallops Rockefeller and were beyond impressed. Massive, snug on their spinach bed, and served on the half-shell, these scallops, due to their perfectly executed encounter with a broiler, reminded us, visually, of toasted maritime marshmallows and tasted like hollandaise-covered heaven. Also on offer, the Shrimp Cocktail, served in a romaine decorated martini glass, was as impressive as the scallops in terms of size (huge), flavour (spot on, with an authentic “of the sea” saltiness), and texture (not chewy at all).

Now to the real reason you’re here. Put on your meat-eating pants and take a gander at a menu that includes not only the classics—New York sirloin, filet mignon, and Chicago cut porterhouse—but also bison, ribs and Kobe steak. Don’t fret if you don’t feel like sinking your teeth into some red meat after your day of wheeling and dealing on Bay Street, Steak’s menu offers up fresh fish, such as salmon and sea bass, seafood, in the shape of lobster and crab cakes, as well as chicken. Deciding to not hold back and get right into the thick of things, we went for la crème de la crème—the filet mignon. Seasoned and then grilled up under the watchful eye of Michelin Star worthy Executive Chef Scott Saunderson, our medium-rare filet was plated solo. A confident move, when many a restaurant would distract focus with decoration, Chef Saunderson wants all eyes on the meat. Our filet, slightly charred, but very juicy, was melt-in-your-mouth and wonderfully peppered, if not a wee bit on the medium side of the scale.

While your steak may be served all by its lonesome, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t invite some friends for it. The sides—in potato form as baked, mashed, or fried and in vegetable form as asparagus, broccoli and rappini—at Steak are a must, and, in what adds a communal vibe to the meal—and in our case an extra reason to talk to Sara Waxman—are portioned to be shared. Mashed potatoes, with just the right dosage of garlic, are beautifully presented and the rappini, sautéed in olive oil and some more of the bulbous stuff, was lovely.

Again served in a martini glass (are we noting a theme?), the mango sorbet, with hints of pineapple, and in this reviewer’s mind, the slightest coconutiness, is a lighter, and delicious, way to end your meal. If you’ve managed to save a larger pocket of tum-room you can indulge in a very classic New York cheesecake—lessened slightly by whipped cream that seemed a tad canned—or Devil’s chocolate ice cream.

Lunch will set you back upwards of $25.00 and dinner, for mains, caps off at around $60.00. Maybe not our every day budget, but when you’re feeling a little Gordon Gekko, Steak Restaurant and Bar won’t disappoint.

Steak Restaurant
www.steakrestaurant.ca
96 Richmond St. W.
416-366-9600